How Dr. Martens is reinventing its celebrated boot: “A practical reinterpretation of our DNA”

Few brands straddle the line between workwear practicality and cultural symbolism like Dr. Martens. The iconic 1460 boot, born in 1960 as a utilitarian shoe for workers, has become a canvas for subcultures, music scenes, and movements of defiance. With such a weighty legacy, redesigning it is no small task. Yet, this is precisely what the new 1460 Sub Boot and 14XX Sub Boot and Sub Shoe aim to do—not by reinventing the wheel but by adapting it to a more complex and technical present.

Joel Wilson, Dr. Martens’ Design Lead since 2017 and a recipient of the Drapers Footwear Designer of the Year award, understands the stakes better than most. A self-described “multimedia designer” with a penchant for blending tradition and experimentation, Wilson has helped steer the brand through collaborations and innovations that build on its storied history. “Our 1460 boot is timeless because of its simplicity—the upper is just five pieces of leather stitched together. It’s a great base to evolve from, but that evolution has to respect what came before,” he explains.

The 1460 Sub Boot is not trying to outshine its predecessor, nor is it aiming to be the “next big thing.” Instead, it methodically refines the features that have made the 1460 endure, while subtly updating them for contemporary demands. The boot features a chunkier, moulded outsole that replaces the yellow welt stitching, lending it a monochromatic look that aligns more with function than flair.

Its construction incorporates water-resistant Newlands leather, breathable fleece linings, and a reinforced waterproof base. These additions make it well-suited to urban environments and damp weather—not revolutionary, but effective. “It started as a lockdown project, born out of necessity,” Wilson explains. “The result is a practical reinterpretation of our DNA, designed for wearers who need more performance without compromising on the iconic design.”

That “DNA” is a recurring theme. The Sub Boot retains key identifiers: the puritan stitch, the AirWair heel loop, and the overall silhouette of the 1460. These subtle callbacks tether it to the original, ensuring that despite its technical upgrades, it’s unmistakably Dr. Martens.

If the 1460 Sub Boot is practical, its reinterpretation through the 14XX Sub Boot and Sub Shoe is provocative. Described by Wilson as “pure design exploration,” these models doesn’t shy away from breaking conventions. A removable gaiter covers the boot, designed for protection against wind, sand, and snow, and is printed with a striking monochrome snow camouflage. It’s not a design feature you’d expect from a brand known for its yellow-stitch workwear roots, but it’s one that speaks to Dr. Martens’ willingness to experiment.

The Cranberries, Bosnia, 1996

“The ‘14’ marks where we began—1st April 1960,” Wilson says. “The ‘XX’ represents the unknown, the future we’re designing for.” As part of the experimental 14XX series, this boot is less about mass appeal and more about testing new ideas—an incubator for materials and methods that might trickle into more mainstream products.

The original 1460 boot, launched on April 1, 1960, was born out of practicality, designed as a sturdy work boot for postmen and factory workers. Its name, a nod to its birthdate, reflects its utilitarian origins, but its simple, durable design—crafted with just five stitched leather pieces, air-cushioned soles, and the now-iconic yellow welt stitching—quickly transcended its purpose. Adopted by youth subcultures, from punks to goths, the 1460 became a symbol of rebellion and individuality, walking a unique path through fashion, music, and cultural history.

The most interesting aspect of the new Sub Boot lies not in its design flourishes but in its approach to heritage. Instead of relying on nostalgia, these boots pull from Dr. Martens’ archives as a springboard for forward-thinking design. “Everything starts in the archive,” Wilson notes. “You either bring back something useful or learn from what’s been done.”
 

This is evident in the functional elements that underpin both boots. The waterproof bases and pile linings nod to Dr. Martens’ long-standing reputation for durability. Yet, the updates—chunkier outsoles, streamlined silhouettes, and modular elements—feel less like retro homage and more like calculated steps toward utility and longevity.

Skepta, Shutdown, 205

The snow camouflage on the 14XX, for instance, speaks to a broader aesthetic shift influenced by trends like gorpcore. While it’s unlikely you’ll see these gaiters scaling icy cliffs, they tap into the same fascination with rugged, performance-driven fashion. At the same time, they highlight Dr. Martens’ strategy of placing itself adjacent to, but not wholly consumed by, these fleeting trends.

Redesigning an icon inevitably raises the question of how far you can push without losing its essence. For Dr. Martens, the balance seems to hinge on consistency in certain details—materials, stitching techniques, and the enduring appeal of its simple yet distinctive shape.

Yet, some concessions to modernity are necessary. Take the monochromatic black stitching of the 1460 Sub Boot, a shift from the yellow stitching that once symbolized authenticity. While purists may balk, Wilson sees this as an extension of Dr. Martens’ design philosophy. “Black stitching is more fashion-forward,” he notes. “It doesn’t replace the yellow stitch but broadens our offering.”

Similarly, the technical upgrades, while practical, don’t deviate from the core principles of the original. The boots are still designed to be durable, versatile, and wearable in environments far removed from the factory floors they were initially intended for, Wilson explains.

IDLES, Danny Nedelko, 2018

In a world increasingly preoccupied with sustainability, Dr. Martens leans heavily on the longevity of its products as a selling point. “Sustainability, for us, is through the lens of durability,” Wilson explains. “These boots are built to last.”

That ethos extends beyond design. Dr. Martens has begun experimenting with reclaimed leather and alternative materials, such as the Genix Nappa range, which uses leather offcuts to reduce waste. While these initiatives are in their infancy, they point to a brand that recognizes the growing demand for sustainable practices without abandoning its material-driven heritage.