Described by Christian Dior as “the master of us all” and by Cecil Beaton as the “Picasso of Fashion”, Cristóbal Balenciaga is undoubtedly one of the most famous, admired, and referenced couturiers in fashion history. From his early works—earning him a distinguished reputation among the Spanish monarchy—to the launch of his haute couture line after moving to France, his legacy remains indisputable today: an inexhaustible source of inspiration and a timeless reference point.

In order to celebrate 130 years after his birth, from today, February 21, until March 2, Palazzo Morando (Milan) is hosting Cristóbal Balenciaga: Shoes from Spain Tribute—the first Italian monographic exhibition dedicated to the Spanish designer. The exhibition explores various aspects of his work: “A couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for color, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher for temperance,” Balenciaga himself once said. The project has been promoted by FICE, Federation of Spanish Footwear Industries, and its president, Rosana Perán. 

The exhibition’s curator and organizer, Javier Echeverría Sola, conceived a dual-faceted exhibition, a dialogue between different yet connected souls. Thus, Cristóbal Balenciaga’s heart and history intertwine with the contemporary Spanish footwear industry. Each garment by the couturier, sourced from museum and private collections, is matched with footwear crafted by prominent Spanish brands.  

Set up by Elisa Ossino Studio, the exhibition is hosted within Palazzo Morando, occupying the ground-floor area dedicated to temporary exhibitions and concluding in the Salottino on the upper floor. The exhibition is divided into eight sections, inspired by Balenciaga’s signature codes, and further enriched by significant archival materials, including newspapers and photos documenting the couturier’s earliest works. 

The first section, introduced by a series of long white curtains reminiscent of Balenciaga’s original Parisian atelier, is titled From TRADITION to INNOVATION. Here, visitors can admire the iconic Infanta dress from 1939, one of his most symbolic pieces, alongside a long ivory gown edged with a raspberry-colored cape, worn by the Countess of Torroella de Montgrí in 1962 for the wedding of Juan Carlos and Sophia, the future monarchs of Spain.  

The Most Spanish Wardrobe is the title of the second room, featuring three meticulously selected garments from the wardrobes of Balenciaga’s close friends and clients, Sonsoles Diez de Rivera and her mother, the Marquise of Llanzol. The following area, La Robe de Soir, is dedicated to Balenciaga’s signature evening gowns, displaying five elegant models, including a one-of-a-kind silk brocade sari dress worn by mezzo-soprano Teresa Berganza in 1965. 

For the Immersive Balenciaga section, the exhibition further engages visitors by displaying a black silk balloon dress in a showcase, which visitors can only admire through a peephole—just as Cristóbal Balenciaga himself used to observe his models in silence from behind the curtains of his atelier. This is followed by a dark room, Balenciaga’s Black/Spanish Black, dedicated to the designer’s favorite color. A shade that encapsulates both the sobriety of daytime and the richness of evening, black also serves as the perfect love letter to Spanish art.  

The star of The Bride section is an ivory silk shantung wedding gown, entirely embroidered with silver thread and inspired by the mantles of the Virgins of Seville. This extraordinary piece was custom-made for Sonsoles Diez de Rivera. The penultimate section displays a 1951 evening gown from the Swarovski Heritage Collection, completely adorned with beads and crystals. For the grand finale, set in the golden Salottino—a space typically closed to the public to protect its precious frescoed flooring— a pale pink silk evening gown embellished with gold sequins and beads is displayed, paired with a matching silk satin coat.

The goal of the exhibition is to create an immersive narrative that celebrates the legend of Cristóbal Balenciaga in perfect harmony with his codes. The garments are elevated to the status of timeless works of art, treated as sculptural masterpieces. The atmosphere echoes the solemn, austere nature of Balenciaga’s runway shows, which were once described as religious ceremonies. Lastly, his deep love for history and tradition merges seamlessly with modernity and innovation, represented in this case by Spanish footwear—creating a creative dialogue that defines the poetic vision of the great Balenciaga.