What to see at Manifesta, Europe’s most renowned nomadic biennale

The former headquarters of the Gustavo Gili publishing house, renowned for being the first to publish key authors in the fields of art and architecture in Spanish, is an icon of the Catalan Rationalist movement, located in Barcelona’s L’Eixample district. This building hosts three archive exhibitions, which form the heart of the biennale. From here, Manifesta 15 extends into three geographical areas: the Llobregat Delta, the Collserola Massif, and the Besòs River.

Three Chimneys in Sant Adrià de Besòs, with its three towering chimneys, is known as the "Sagrada Família of the workers," a thermoelectric power plant that has become a symbol of the city's industrial past. The commissioned works are displayed in the outdoor areas and the turbine hall. Among these are the temporary structures by Carlos Bunga, the futuristic landscapes by Julian Charrière, and the immersive installations by Mike Nelson. Also featured are works by Niels Albers, Carolina Caycedo, Jeremy Deller, Alexandra Daisy Ginsberg, Asad Raza, Ugo Schiavi, and the textile art of Aurèlia Muñoz. One of the standout installations is URCHINS by Choi+Shine, inspired by the skeleton of a sea urchin. The Italian duo Claire Fontaine is also represented.

L'Hospitalet de Llobregat, often shortened to L’Hospitalet or simply L’H, is Catalonia’s second most populous city. Historically known as a center for the Catalan textile industry in the 19th century, it has now become a vibrant hub for the creative sector. Be sure to visit Can Trinxet, a former textile factory whose architectural charm is complemented by its role in hosting one of the most compelling installations of Manifesta 15. Here, Italian-Senegalese visual artist Binta Diaw presents a work that explores themes of identity and culture through an innovative dialogue between materials and spaces. The exhibition also features works by Ana Mendieta, Anca Benera & Arnold Estefan, Annette Barcelo, Antoni Tàpies, Carlos Pérez Siquier, Elmo Vermijs, Embassy of the North Sea, Enrique Ramírez, Felipe Romero Beltrán, Fina Miralles, Gözde İlkin, Ira Lupu, Katja Novitskova, La Casa dels Futurs, Larry Achiampong, Lin May Saeed, Lola Lasurt, Magda Bolumar, Manuel Chavajay, Matías Daporta, Moisès Villèlia, Paisanaje, and Ruta Putramentaite.

Casa Gomis is an exceptional modernist villa located in El Prat de Llobregat. Built in 1963 by architect Antoni Bonet as a private residence for Ricardo Gomis, an engineer and member of the ADLAN and CLUB49 groups alongside renowned artists and intellectuals such as John Cage, Merce Cunningham, Antoni Tàpies, Joan Miró, and Joan Brossa, it is an architectural masterpiece usually closed to the public. During your visit, you can discover the extraordinary art collection of the original owners, including a monumental jute tapestry by Magda Bolumar Chertó and a series of sculptures by Moisès Villèlia, displayed in a garden designed by Villèlia himself. For Manifesta 15, the collection is enhanced by recent works from over 20 artists, including Catalan artist Lola Lasurt, the multidisciplinary collective Embassy of the North Sea, site-specific pieces by Larry Achiampong, and exemplary works by Chiara Camoni, Ana Mendieta, and Annette Barcelo.

Spend a day exploring the cities northeast of Barcelona, starting in Granollers, where Manifesta 15 welcomes you at four different venues, all easily reachable on foot. Begin your visit at La Porxada, built in the late 16th century as a grain exchange and now the focal point of Granollers, where you can discover Félix Blume's sound installation. Then head to the Natural Science Museum. A short distance away, you'll find Roca Umbert, Fabbrica delle Arti, a former textile factory transformed into a center for arts and culture, dating back to 1904. Finally, visit Can Jonch, Cultural Centre for Peace, located in a Catalan déco-modernist home, where Manifesta 15 features a video installation by MASBEDO in the garden.

Before heading to Granollers, remember to check the Manifesta website to keep track of the schedule for Ghost Soldier (Gabbing Away), the new project by the artistic duo MASBEDO. This performance combines images from Peter Watkins' Oscar-winning film "The War Game" with live actions. The images, re-edited across five screens, are projected inside a city air-raid shelter, evoking the memory of dramatic bombings and exploring the thin boundary between reality and historical and cinematic representation. Each performance has a maximum capacity of 20 people, and access is on a first-come, first-served basis. Running from September 7 to September 8, 2024.