Chiswick House in west London may seem like just one of many English stately homes, but, built by Lord Burlington in 17th century it is regarded as one of the key buildings that introduced Palladian architecture into Britain and as such has been the subject of £12m of restoration, including a small budget for a stately café by London architects Caruso St John.

Finally opening last week, the gardens are now immaculately manicured, the villa restored and the famously restrained architects have contributed a quietly grand, sober white stone pavilion to the splendid grounds.

On a visit to the house and gardens last week, the atmosphere is distinctly west London. Dog walkers strolled through the lanes and coffee mornings, prams and toddlers congregated in the landmark café. Clearly the strongest part of the design is the deep and generous 3.5m arcade marked by soberly proportioned columns, made of curious pitted white blocks of Portland stone. They frame the gardens beautifully and provide a practical shade and shelter for the notorious British weather (if it's not too cold or rainy it's too hot and humid).

While design is doubtlessly a thoughtful and elegant contribution to the visual landscape of the gardens, inside there is little to note and it is a generic as cafés come. Mirrored lampshades seemed more appropriate for a glitzy bar and the furniture is uncomfortable, and the tea was tepid. The architects clearly put much more of their time and expertise to the lasting structure, the proportions and the materials, which for those strolling through the park and those underneath the colonnade will thoroughly enjoy. For those inside it however, it's not just a treat. Beatrice Galilee