In the last ten years, a small batch
of works "pending" has accumulated
in Italy. These paint a good picture of
the country, while also attesting to the
expectations raised by Italy's complex
cultural condition. The European
Library by Bolles+Wilson and the
Museum of Cultures by Chipperfield
in Milan, the new IUAV headquarters
in Venice by Enric Miralles and
Benedetta Tagliabue, the MAXXI
by Zaha Hadid, and the MACRO by
Odile Decq in Rome are but the visible
tip of the iceberg of a very brief season
of municipal and ministerial enthusiasm.
In the late 1990s that season had
launched large-scale international
consultations and created a number
of new contemporary icons for Italy's
major cities in search of identity.
This was very important because it
forcefully reintroduced the need
for public institutions to let contemporary
architecture finally resume
its most advanced expressions, in a
country that is still clearly not happy
with an evolved idea of modern
architecture.
At the same time, those years saw the great vitality of an emerging Italian
architecture, with a mixture of neosituationism,
radical rediscovery
and digitalist upheavals. There was
a strong impression that something
new and secular was at last on the
move, after at least two decades of
academic sluggishness and stagnated
experimentation.
So it looked as if most of these "promised" works would be charged with
expectations and desires, at least by
a part of Italian architectural culture,
while waiting for these different signals
to shake up a society unaccustomed
to the contemporary and its
new spaces.
But then the excitement of new choices
and of the first published renderings
subsided into the slow and characteristically
Italian administrative
anticlimax of time passing, financial
difficulties and political changes.
All this led to the atavistic and very
dangerous sensation that these courageous
decisions would slowly but
inexorably end up buried under tons
of stamped documents and public
indifference.
It is therefore interesting to return,
after a few years, to the scene of the
crime and to note that, on the contrary,
the two Rome projects have not
only been completed, but have in
particular survived all those national
ills that have spelt the silent death of
so many other important previously
judged architecture competitions.
The credit clearly belongs to those
who believed in these projects: admiring
and faithful clients, stubborn
curators and picaresque administrations,
which are populated, however,
by a great many competent, anonymous
public officials, and architects
who have resisted the temptation
to give up the whole thing before
completion.
I think it is important to look at these
works firstly as outstanding forms of
cultural resistance to a background
of indifference regarding quality and
an experimental approach to reality.
They should also be treated as inexorable
signals that in Italy, too, "it can
be done", i.e. that urban places can
be generated as bearers of a different
and problematic way of imagining
public space today.
The MACRO is one of these concrete
examples to be surveyed and understood
over the coming years. I say this
because it would be gratifying to think
that, every now and again, critics and
magazines can afford to return to places
that were celebrated at their birth,
perhaps visiting them with the architect
who designed them. This would
allow us to check out how real life and
people have inhabited, transformed
and maybe even disputed the work of
architecture which changed the fate
of that particular part of a city.
Walking about the scaffolding and
spaces as they draw to completion, I
like to look at the MACRO as a promise
fulfilled, a place that just wants everyday
life to let it live and be discussed.
The MACRO has always presented
itself as a critical and successfully
problematical work. It is an expression
of the restless talents of the lady
"in black", M.me Odile Decq, but
also the manifesto-project for a way
of openly imagining a contemporary
art space that would also be a vital
urban fragment in the heart of Rome.
I don't think it is easy for anybody to
work in the soft and stratified belly of
such an ancient city. It is always risky to
play with memories, dazzling images,
accumulated matter, or visual, literary
and sensual references, even for an
architect of such talent and conceptual
richness as Decq. There is always
the danger of wanting to say too much
and succumbing to an autobiographical
narcissism that can undermine
even the best of designs.
But the new MACRO not only gives the impression of being a work that
has weathered the long years of its
realisation. Above all, this new contemporary
urban cog can offer a rich
and multifaceted system of spatial
experiences that reach beyond the
mere system of displaying modern
and contemporary art.
The determination to maintain the
whole museum system as an unstable
organism, stiffened by a restless grid
of viewpoints, walkways, routes and
railed balconies, makes the MACRO
an introverted urban place that is primarily
an experience of discovery for
the visitor.
The entrance immediately states this
wealth of routes leading through the
rooms and public areas to the roofgarden-
restaurant, where the city
is suddenly revealed in all its splendour.
The museum firstly becomes
a place of possible experience, a
generous labyrinth multiplying the
angles of vision and offering images
as alternatives to our traditional viewpoints.
The former Peroni brewery
has finally opened its fences and let
the city into the new museum, with
its inward angles and views opening
onto the facade, its new roof indicating
its changed purpose, and its few
and forceful contemporary materials
in a dialogue with a carefully restored
past. Rather than a mummified industrial
icon, the result is a very lively
work of contemporary architecture,
open and ready to be inhabited.
Luca Molinari
MACRO, Museo d'Arte Contemporanea, Roma
Architects and artistic direction: "sarl Odile
Decq Benoît Cornette – architectes urbanistes
– Paris", in collaboration with Burkhard Morass
Client: Municipality of Rome
Project architect: Giuseppe Savarese with
Frédéric Haesevoets and Valeria Parodi
Renderings: Odile Decq – Labtop
Structures: Studio di ingegneria delle strutture,
Livorno, with Batiserf, Grenoble
Services and safety:
A.I. Studio – A.I. Engineering,Turin
Works management:
Zètema Progetto Cultura s.r.l.
General contractor: Consorzio Cooperative
Costruzioni, with allocation to Cooperativa
di Costruzioni
Furnishings contractor: CLM – Centro Lavorazioni
Metalli
Built area: 7,000 m2 (foyer, exhibition rooms
lecture hall, art video, art cafe, restaurant,
artist studio, artwork storage, goods storage,
carpenter's workshop), 3,000 m2 (roof terrace),
5,000 m2 (car park)
Design period: 2001 – 2003
Construction period: 2004 – 2010
Odile's museum: a promise kept
Once in a (great) while, Italy's public institutions succeed in getting things done! After the slow passing of administrative time, Rome has received two new museum buildings that open the city to contemporary times: the MAXXI and the MACRO.
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- Luca Molinari
- 08 June 2010
- Rome