A collection of Domus guides to the cities

From Beijing to Toronto, from Abu Dhabi to Lisbon, we have compiled essential guides to discover cities, their culture and unique identity, through architecture. Check them out here.

There are many ways to visit a city. There is the tourist who has to sweep all the museums in the city, spending most of his stay in their halls; there are those who go for shopping: fashion but not only, also modern antiques, vinyls or perhaps collectible books and prints. There are those who have the illusion of living the life of the place for a few days, living as a local; or those who go just to eat at a particular restaurant. Finally, there are those who show up totally unprepared, those who travel to travel, and return home with valuable discoveries or a little consoling “I guess I missed the best.” We at Domus have created concise itineraries of what we know best: the design of cities and their architecture. That can be private or public buildings, parks or squares, bridges and stations. And why not, museums, the architects’ masterpieces. Are not cities, after all, made up of just that at the heart of their identity?

Abu Dhabi

Photo Mikkel Frost

In Abu Dhabi the history is recent and rapidly changing. Over the last fifty years the country has transformed from a pearl fishing village into a leading capital on the world geopolitical scene; from a Bedouin center into a melting pot in which flows of people from all over the world intertwine; from a provincial place buried in the desert (while Dubai was already becoming noticed) into an artistic-cultural stage of international appeal. Read more

Beijing

Photo Zhu Difeng

It is said that to see China of the last millennia, one has to go to Xi’an, “the paradise of the West”, to see that of the last centuries, to Beijing, “the northern capital”, and to see that of the last decades, one has to go to Shanghai, the “pearl by the sea”. It’s no coincidence that the main monuments of Beijing date back to the last two ruling dynasties, the Ming and the Qing. In fact, Beijing is no exception to most of China’s historical sites, continuously reshaped in settlement forms, both in residential neighborhoods and imperial palaces. Read more

Toronto

Photo Daniel Salgado

City of design, art, and entertainment: Toronto is the beating heart of Canadian dynamism. Here, history and innovation come face to face in a continuous dialogue and experimentation between history and contemporaneity. The city is thus a collection of architectural events: punctuating the plot of skyscrapers, low brutalist buildings invert the relationship between glass and concrete, bricks decorate the Art Nouveau facades, coloring even one of the “flatiron” buildings that dot North America red. Read more

Chicago

Photo by Tierney on Adobe Stock

Talking about Chicago, every architect immediately thinks of two things: the early skyscrapers of the famous Chicago School, and Frank Lloyd Wright’s prairie houses. Thus, names such as Louis Sullivan and the Burnham brothers are evoked, or again Wright and the images of the Robie house, with its jutting roofs, massive volumes, and warm interiors. Read more

Venice

Photo by Henrique Ferreira on Unsplash

Venice developed under the influence of profound cultural contamination, reflecting in the development of a unique architectural language: in Venice, the Istrian stone foundations of the buildings rest on totally artificial soils made of wooden poles and mud, and all growth is meant to be vertical. But Venice is also a nostalgic city. Read more

Helsinki

Majamaja, eco-cabins by Littow Architects The Municipality of Helsinki has launched a competition for the redevelopment of Makasiiniranta, the last area of ​​the old port to be converted for public use and where the new Museum of Design and Architecture will be built: over 83,000 square meters of land facing the sea, currently used as a terminal port and parking. Among the proposals there is also Majamaja, a wooden cabin, designed by Littow Architects, completely off-grid (23 sqm), prefabricated and transportable, furnished in a minimal and functional way to be completely self-sufficient and allow total immersion in the zero impact nature. The collection of rainwater and gray water filtered by a purification system ensures water autonomy, while the drains of the dry bathroom are composted and reused as fertilizer. Electricity is supplied by solar panels and a fuel cell, finally the heating is methane. It is the first of a series that will create a mini-village.

Location: Vuorilahdentie 1, Helsinki

Majamaja, the eco-cabins by Littow Architects

Location: Vuorilahdentie 1, Helsinki

Majamaja, the eco-cabins by Littow Architects

Location: Vuorilahdentie 1, Helsinki

Nolla, an (almost) zero waste restaurant Concepts such as “zero km”, circular economy, community gardens, environmental protection have always been part of Finnish culture. It is therefore no surprise that Albert Franch Sunyer (Spanish), Carlos Henriques (Portuguese) and Luca Balac (born in the former Yugoslavia), the three founding chefs and owners of Nolla (“zero” in Finnish), have chosen Helsinki for their project. Opened in February 2018, Nolla is the first restaurant in Scandinavian countries and among the first in the world to have eliminated the amount of waste produced. How? Thanks to a biocomposer (positioned in plain sight in the dining room) that “grinds” 85 kg of kitchen leftovers per day. In a perfectly circular way, the compost produced from the waste is sold to the restaurant's suppliers, all within a radius of 200 km from Helsinki. 

Location: Fredikinkatu 22, Helsinki

Nolla, an (almost) zero waste restaurant In the restaurant (which is also a bar and microbrewery) plastic is not included even for the packaging of the ingredients and every object is recycled: the staff uniforms, the napkins in recycled PET and the glasses made from old glass bottles.

Location: Fredikinkatu 22, Helsinki

Nolla, an (almost) zero waste restaurant

Location: Fredikinkatu 22, Helsinki

Nomen Nescio, no-logo, no-gender, sustainable brand In a country where women won the right to vote in 1906, and where the premier, Sanna Marin, 34, is the youngest in the world at the head of a coalition of five parties all led by women, gender equality is an almost established fact. Nomen Nescio (from the Latin, “anonymous”), the most radical Finnish clothing brand of the moment in terms of sustainability goes in this direction: no logo, with a minimal aesthetic, with unisex collections re-proposed with a few variations season after season and in a single color, black. 

Location: Mikonkatu 1, Helsinki

Nomen Nescio, no-logo, no-gender, sustainable brand Founded in 2012 by the Finnish fashion designer couple Niina Leskelä and Timo Leskelä, it boasts a local production (in Finland or neighboring Estonia) and materials, carefully selected in Europe, strictly organic.

Location: Mikonkatu 1, Helsinki

Scandic Grand Central Following the recent inaugurations of the Amos Rex Museum designed by JKMM Architects and the Oodi Central Library by ALA Architects, with the opening of the new Scandic Grand Central hotel, in the former railway offices designed by Eliel Saarinen in 1909 next to the central station (also by Saarinen), the careful transformation of the center of the capital continues. The large Art Nouveau complex was extended by Futudesign and restored by Soini & Horto Architects. The interiors, on the other hand, are designed by the Puroplan studio, who explained how they aimed to “maintain the original spirit of the building by transforming it into a modern Scandinavian hotel, which does not look like a museum”.

Location: Vilhonkatu 13, Helsinki

Scandic Grand Central

Location: Vilhonkatu 13, Helsinki

Design Museum Housed in a charming former school building from the late 19th century, the Helsinki Design Museum has a collection of over 100,000 images, 75,000 objects and 40,000 drawings. A permanent exhibition on the history of Finnish design from 1870 to the present day alongside temporary exhibitions. After the exhibition dedicated to Iittala's 140 years of history (“Iittala - Kaleidoscope: From Nature to Culture”, curated by Florencia Colombo and Ville Kokkonen), “Intimacy” (8.10.2021-13.3.2022) explores the Finnish fashion design of 2020s and the intimate relationship between the body and the clothes we wear, introducing the creative process, from initial sketches to finished products and analyzing the impact of digitization.

Location: Korkeavuorenkatu 23, Helsinki

Design Museum

Location: Korkeavuorenkatu 23, Helsinki

Enough: “design wherever life takes you" Basta (“Enough” in Italian) is a new design brand born from the encounter (in Milan) of Marcel Wanders (design star and founder, among other things, of Moooi), Joel Roos and Stefan Mahlberg (who worked both for One Nordic and Hem). Wanders defines it as the “Tesla of industrial design”: sturdy, elegant pieces, easy to assemble anywhere, to move “wherever life takes you”, with very long life cycles and an eye to sustainability. A strong supporter of a more romantic and humanistic design thinking, the Dutch designer also explains that the next step will be to find reliable partners for local productions. The first products in the catalog are two different sofas, designed by Marcel Wanders and Stockholm Note Design Studio, a wooden coffee table by young Finnish Antrei Hartikainen and a table by Danish designer Søren Rose.

Location: Itälahdenkatu 18 C, Helsinki

Basta: “design wherever life takes you"

Location: Itälahdenkatu 18 C, Helsinki

Helsinki Biennial 2021: The Same Sea Curated by Pirkko Siitari and Taru Tappola and produced by the Helsinki Museum of Art (HAM), the first edition of the Biennale took possession of Vallisaari with the works of 41 artists, local and international, installed outdoors in the unspoiled nature of island (where 1,000 species of butterflies, 6 of bats and 400 different plants live) and in the former military buildings. A strategic outpost for the control of the Gulf of Finland disputed between Finland, Russia and Estonia, Vallisaari (open to the public only since 2016) is accessible in 10 minutes by boat from the capital and is an essential stop. The title, “The Same Sea”, taken from a text by the Estonian poet Jaan Kaplinski, reminds us how human beings all live on the same planet where everything is interconnected. Among the best known artists, Pawel Althamer, Alicja Kwade (whose work will be permanent), Katharina Grosse (photo), Janet Cardiff and Maaria Wirkkala. The appointment with the next edition will be in 2023.

Location: Vallisaari island, Helsinki

Helsinki Biennial 2021: The Same Sea Jaakko Niemelä, Quai 6, 2021. Opera commissionata da HAM/Helsinki Biennial 2021

Location: Vallisaari island, Helsinki

Helsinki Biennial 2021: The Same Sea Alicja Kwade, Pars pro Toto, 2018. Commissioned by HAM/Helsinki Biennial 2021 and Kalasatama Environmental Art Project

Location: Vallisaari island, Helsinki

Cover Story, Finns’ sense of color Anssi Jokinen and Tommi Saarnio have seized a market gap in the interior paint sector. In their opinion, there was a lack of a brand with a high-level decorative approach and that was as simple as possible for end users. Starting from the rich color palette that characterizes Finnish homes and public places (where, in the post-war period, the lack of building materials gave rise to a tradition of using color to create shapes, style and atmosphere), in 2020, they founded their brand, naming it Cover Story. More like an interior decoration studio and closer to a lifestyle approach than to a paint company, Cover Story also focuses on plastic-free materials. The debut was in 2021 with a catalog of 38 colors, all inspired by the Finnish interiors of the 1920s and 1950s, and a capsule collection designed by Finnish designer, based in Paris, Linda Bergroth.

Location: Bulevardi 17, Helsinki

Cover Story, Finns’ sense of color

Location: Bulervadi 17, Helsinki

Cover Story, Finns’ sense of color Cover Story Paint Studio founders

Location: Bulevardi 17, Helsinki

EMMA Museum + Rut Bryk Tapio Wirkkala Visible Storage The EMMA Museum (Espoo Museum of Modern Art) is always worth a visit for more than one reason. First, the architecture – the museum is housed in a former printing house, a brutalist concrete building from the late 1950s immersed in a forest – with its permanent art collection (the largest in the country). On the first floor, there is also the section dedicated to the works of Rut Bryk and Tapio Wirkkala. Museum within the museum, it is conceived as a look behind the scenes and as an immersion in the archive of the Finnish iconic couple of artists. In chronological order and on the shelves, some of the 2,000 items in the collection are displayed in rotation, while the rest is stored in wooden crates and on open shelves. Last reason, the temporary exhibitions. “Ceramics Facing the New” (until 7.8.2022), offers the works of 12 artists and two groups who have worked with kintsugi, the Japanese tradition of repairing broken ceramic with gold or another metal, embellishing it. In this case, kintsugi is also a metaphor for society: a fracture can be the signal of something new. How can the fragments be brought together to create a lasting structure?

Location: Emma Espoo Museum, Ahertajantie 5, Espoo

EMMA, Espoo Museum of Modern Art

Location: Emma Espoo Museum, Ahertajantie 5, Espoo

EMMA, Espoo Museum of Modern Art

Location: Emma Espoo Museum, Ahertajantie 5, Espoo

Glasshouse: five floors of sustainable art and design Inaugurated in 2020 in an art nouveau building on the historic Aleksanterinkatu street, where the presidential palace is also located, the Glasshouse was born on the initiative of Mirkku Kullberg, with the aim of encouraging people to think (and buy) in a sustainable way. Arranged over five floors, it houses a shop and art and design gallery. On the ground floor, since March 2021, the Lokal gallery has a space, founded by the photographer Katja Hagelstam, which combines art, craftsmanship and design, between unique pieces and small productions.

Glasshouse: five floors of sustainable art and design

Location: Aleksanterinkatu 13, Helsinki

Alvar Aalto, Home and Studio Two timeless jewels and an unmissable stop, Alvar Aalto's family home and studio, built respectively in 1936 and 1955, are located in Munkkiniemi, a residential neighborhood surrounded by a wood. Maintained thanks to the activity and dedication of the Foundation under the same name (which has also managed the Alvar Aalto Museum in Jyväskylä, in Central Finland since 1966), they are a dive into the architecture and personal history of one of the icons of 20th century architecture.

Location: Riihitie 20 and Tiilimäki 20, Helsinki

Alvar Aalto, Home and Studio

Location: Riihitie 20 and Tiilimäki 20, Helsinki

Alvar Aalto, Home and Studio

Location: Riihitie 20 and Tiilimäki 20, Helsinki

Savoy Restaurant, the elegance of Aalto revised by Studioilse The restaurant designed by Alvar and Aino Aalto more than 80 years ago has found its original spirit – a comfortable and human-sized, functional and elegant environment, where natural materials dominate – after the intervention of Ilse Crawford (Studioilse) and Artek of 2019. Starting from the original drawings of 1937, the London studio has restored original furniture and fixtures, bringing to light the different types of wood (oak, elm, pine and mahogany) originally planned. The only concession is the long bench at the edge of the room with the padded backrest lined with black and white striped fabric: it is a tribute to Aino Aalto who, in a renowned photo, wears this very fabric. For the terrace, Artek then created a special edition of the Chair 611 from 1929.

Location: Eteläesplanadi 1, Helsinki

Savoy Restaurant, the elegance of Aalto revised by Studioilse

Location: Eteläesplanadi 1, Helsinki

The Urban Environment House The new headquarters of the Urban Environment Division of the city of Helsinki (responsible for design, construction, maintenance, construction management and environmental services) was inaugurated in 2020 but, due to the pandemic, has not yet entered full capacity. It brings together under the same roof, and on an area of ​​40,900 square meters, 500 professionals (and only 75 parking spaces, confirming the green vocation). The project is almost zero emissions and is signed by the Lahdelma Mahlamäki Architects studio, which defines it as “archaic modernism”: a mixture of references to the history of architecture and new construction technologies, where formally exposed brick, concrete, wood and copper are the dominant materials. KVA Architects collaborated on the interior design - which alternate informal and newly conceived workspaces. The spaces on the ground floor, thanks to the very generous volumes, are also open to citizens.

Location: Työpajankatu 8, Helsinki

The Urban Environment House

Location: Työpajankatu 8, Helsinki

The Urban Environment House

Location: Työpajankatu 8, Helsinki

Beyond Alvar Aalto’s icons, new design galleries and restaurants, cabins in the wild islands and the forest just a few minutes from the centre. The Finnish capital reveals its deeply ecological soul in 15 places. Read more

Copenaghen

Photo by Rasmus Hjortshoj

Contemporary Danish architecture is known for its focus on the human scale and its democratic approach. Copenaghen, in particular, serves as an ideal backdrop for showcasing innovative urban development that integrates environmental friendliness, sustainable solutions, and improved quality of life. The city offers tangible and contemporary examples that embody these principles. Read more

Bilbao

1. The airport Santiago Calatrava has designed the gateway to the city: La Paloma (from July to October, EasyJet provides a direct flight from Milan). Simulating a bird, the airport has a roof that serves as a façade, recognisable from above and from the surrounding hills. Calatrava has designed the Zubizuri (Basque for white bridge) too. Unmistakable for its shape and (slippery) glass bricks, it links the Ensanche area with Calle Campo de Volantín, one of the city’s favourite walks, which stretches along the banks of the Nervión estuary.

Courtesy ©2022 Santiago Calatrava

2. The subway Norman Foster has designed the subway, which not only connects the city but the entire valley, using green energy only. The steel, glass and concrete entrances to the stations are called fosteritos by the inhabitants. The Sarriko station, covered by a glass roof, won the Brunel Prize for railway design in 1998. As the city imposes a 30-kilometre-per-hour limit in order to fight pollution, the Euskotren metro and buses are the perfect solution.

Photo Jean-Pierre Dalbéra

3. Bilbao’s twin towers In collaboration with Iñaki Bilbao Aurrekoetxea, Arata Isozaki has designed the 23-storey twin towers and five office buildings of the Isozaki Atea. Brick, glass, steel and natural stone redesign the Uribitarte area, which was once the city’s customs warehouse. A monumental staircase leads up to Calatrava’s bridge.

4. The tallest skyscraper César Pelli has designed the Iberdrola Tower, which has just celebrated its tenth anniversary. It is the tallest skyscraper in the Basque Country – 165 metres high – (visitors are admitted only when exhibitions are organised) and is the symbol of the redevelopment process of Abandoibarra, a former industrial district, which has long been closed to urban use.

Courtesy Zarateman

5. The library Rafel Moneo has designed the University of Deusto’s library. Made of glass, the building has 10 floors, 5 of which are underground, with almost one million volumes (the largest library in the region). At night, the glass bricks covering the building reflect the greenery it is set in. Nearby is the Paraninfo de la Universidad del País Vasco designed in the shape of an L by Álvaro Siza.

Photo © Duccio Malagamba. Courtesy Rafael Moneo

6. Starck’s transparent swimming pool The Alhóndiga, the Art Nouveau wine warehouse designed by Ricardo Bastida and listed by the Basque government in 1999, has changed its name, appearance and use thanks to Philippe Starck. Today it is called Azkuna Zentroa. It rests on 43 artistic columns, and is a centre for cultural (here is the programme of events https://www.azkunazentroa.eus/en/activities/) and sporting activities. On the roof there is a swimming pool with a transparent floor, which allows the swimmers to be seen from below (you can get in with a day pass: €7.05 for the pool, €10.60 for pool+gym).

Photo Tomas Fano

7. The arena The new architecture has also changed the city’s skyline for sports. The Bilbao Arena, designed by Javier Pérez Uribarri and Nicolás Espinosa, partners in IDOM, rests on Miribilla hill, integrating into the landscape thanks to its green brick roof recalling the foliage of a tree. On the upper floor there is the Bilbao Basketball team area, while on the lower floor there are offices and a swimming pool and gym for the entire neighbourhood.

Courtesy Xabi1980

8. Athletic Stadium César Azcárate’s San Mamés Stadium (Ensanche neighbourhood) is one of the revolutionary signs of the new Bilbao as well. Built to replace the previous structure, which failed to meet Uefa requirements, it has a double-life façade: the EFTE plastic panels are white in sunlight, but turn red thanks to the 42,000 LEDs that light up in the evening (in short, the official colours of Athletic Bilbao).

Photo Marco Almbauer

9. The museum of the so-called Bilbao effect More than a museum, Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum is a sculpture. Its 33,000 titanium flakes that change colour according to the time of day have become the symbol of the city. Costing $100 million and built over four years – from October 1993 to October 1997 – the contemporary art centre occupies an area of 24,000 square metres, 11,000 metres of which are exhibition space. Outside, in addition to Jeff Koons’ Puppy, there are Koons’ Tulips and Louise Bourgeois’ Maman.

Photo Álvaro Ibáñez

Bilbao is a beautiful city and a good place to live. fDi Intelligence, a magazine providing an authoritative voice on investment, is the latest to say so: among medium-sized cities – with a population between 200,000 and 500,000 – the Basque capital attracts talent and promotes business. Bilbao appeals because it was redesigned by architects, because it pursues sustainability, because it offers a higher quality of life than Madrid and Barcelona. Read more

Lisbon

Photo by Liam McKay on Unsplash

As Europe’s westernmost capital, suspended between the continent and the Atlantic Ocean, Lisbon offers a rich and varied architectural palimpsest, from the dense historical fabric to redevelopment projects and new international landmarks. The most characteristic postcard of the city is undoubtedly that of its many alleys crossed by the typical yellow streetcar, but we propose here – through some projects published on domusweb – an unconventional route of the Portuguese capital, starting from the western coast of the Tiago river, to the heart of the capital. Read more

London

Photo by Alev Takil on Unsplash

According to the locals, London's skyline changes so quickly that, from decade to decade, is completely unrecognizable. In fact, walking around the city, it is impossible not to be struck by the succession of buildings rising skywards, façades being renewed and streets opening onto new squares. Through a number of articles published on domusweb, we have sketched out a route for an unconventional look at London which, winding its way through some of the most interesting architectural examples,  highlights its ever-changing face. Read more

Opening image: Picture of Abu Dhabi from Adobe Stock