Curated by Sam Jacob, the exhibition is a challenge
to a new generation of Austrian designers to
engage with the Viennese discourse around
“ornament and crime”. Asked to work with
everyday decorative acts like cake decoration,
tattooing and hairdressing — Loosian “sites of
crime” — their responses oscillate between high
and
sub cultures suggesting possibilities for design’s
role as a cultural and social act and the potential of
the ornamental to “deliver new joy into the
world”.
About ‘Design Criminals’
A text by Sam Jacob:
There are certain things that are beyond the normal
canon of design activity. These are things that you
won’t see in design magazines or museums. Things
that are so ingrained in everyday experience that
they don’t necessarily register as design acts. But
they are things that nevertheless display their own
aesthetic, material and formal frameworks in ways
that make them fully fledged design subcultures.
These vernacular forms of design might include
such things as cake decoration, tattoos,
hairdressing and flower arranging – the kinds of
things that we might make ourselves or have made
for us, the kinds of things ingrained in everyday
activities and rituals. They might not stand in any
grand traditions but that doesn’t stop them being
important sites of cultural expression.
These are a kind of design that operate at the
intersection of the intimate with the public, in the
space between us and the world around us. They
are devices that can be expressions of sentiments
like love, ways of constructing identity or means of
projecting our desires into the world. Despite their
often-slight form, they can carry with them intense
forms of social meaning articulating a sense of
ourselves and signifying our presence in the world.
These forms of design activity seem to operate
under different terms to those of ‘high’ design. We
might ask what it is that makes these approaches
distinct from one another? Why the approaches of
product, furniture, graphics and architecture differ
from these everyday forms of design? And we
might also ask: What might high design be able to
learn from these other sources?
These everyday forms of design are often
decorative and ornamental – ideas which have
troubled high design since Adolf Loos’s
extraordinary essay Ornament and Crime. Loos
characterised the use of ornament in the age of
industrial production as wasteful and morally
wrong. It was, Loos argued, a way of disguising the
essence of an object. By removing ornament,
design could instead reveal its truths.
But truth is always slippery – and even more so
when addressed though the language of things. The
project of Design Criminals is to question and
explore the ways in which vernacular design
cultures might themselves be able to address
various kinds of truth. Because they position design
as an activity that operates socially as well as
within its own material and craft techniques, we
might argue that they address a different register
of truth to that which Loos (and, subsequently high
design traditions of the twentieth century) sought.
Indeed, we might also argue that drawing on the
‘degenerate’ and ‘criminal’ aspects of a wider
culture of objects is a way of re-stating Loosian
demands upon design.
Design Criminals asks questions about designs role
as a social act. The collaborations engage high
design with different sets of techniques and
materials, with unfamiliar sites and with scenarios
that challenge their normal autonomous
relationship to the everyday. By occupying a
position between traditional definitions of high and
low, between the special and the ordinary, it seeks
to ask questions about the intimate moralities,
revolutions and truths that surround us. In another
Loosian phrase, Design Criminals explores the
potential of the decorative and ornamental to
deliver ‘new joy into the world’
Design Criminals
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- Beatrice Galilee
- 04 November 2010